CRAFT PROFLE: Jewellery
History
The history of jewellery runs parallel with the evolution of tools and clothing. The word "jewellery" is derived from the Latin word jocale, meaning "plaything," but jewellery has had many uses. The first pieces of jewellery were made from natural materials such as bone, animal teeth and shell, and are believed to have had a functional purpose for fastening hair or clothing. As mankind evolved, jewellery developed into a symbol denoting group membership (religious or social), status, protection against harm or a display of wealth.
Jewellery has been made to adorn nearly every body part and made with practically every material. Today’s jewellers are as inventive and creative with their craft as at any other point in history. Here, we gather a selection of talented UK jewellery designer-makers to demonstrate just how varied and beautiful handmade jewellery can be.
The Experts
Silversmithing
Jemima Lumley’s beautiful pieces are clearly inspired by nature, although her newest collection is all about silver and lace. “Working in silver (or gold given the money!) means that I can turn my sketches into pieces of jewellery, without compromising the original idea. I love how malleable and forgiving the metal is, allowing me to endlessly tweak my designs so that every piece is slightly different.”
Handmade Silver Circular Lovebird Pendant by Jemima Lumley
Handmade Silver Daisy Chain Necklace by Jemima Lumley
As a bespoke jeweller, the objects created by Chris Parry “are born from the imagination of the client. My role in the partnership is to guide the client to a design that is structurally sound and good for purpose. I have to choose routes of production that fit the client’s budget and design something in keeping with their brief.”
Barcode Date Cufflinks by Chris Parry
Fingerprint Rings by Chris Parry
Resin
Su Trindle from Quercus Silver uses resin in her jewellery: “Resin has added a playful element to my designs. I can make big, bold sculptural forms, I can carve it, I've even mashed it! The colours can be subtle and translucent or rich and opaque. Resin is a very versatile, tactile, lightweight but strong plastic."
Embrace Blue, Silver and Resin Ring by Quercus Silver
Graphico Resin and Silver Rings by Quercus Silver
Nat from Grace Showers Jewellery was drawn to using resin and silver jewellery as a way to add 'pizzazz' to her preferred dark outfits. ”It’s fantastic to be able to create your own colours and shades, or produce glossy or matte finishes which add a unique something to sterling and fine silver.”
Sterling silver and turquoise round earrings by Grace Showers Jewellery
Yellow & Grey Ruggedy Rounds in sterling silver by Grace Showers Jewellery
Precious Metal Clay (PMC)
For Corrina Smith from Green River Studio it’s all about texture. “I started making jewellery the traditional way and discovered that I loved the effects of acid etching but didn’t feel comfortable practising it at home.” After enrolling on a jewellery making course, she was introduced to PMC. “I love the way you can texture metal clay so easily and I regularly make up my own stamps using personal photographs. I’m constantly on the hunt for new textures and regularly walk out of DIY stores with a very ‘eclectic’ bunch of wallpaper samples.”
Pick Me Necklace by Green River Studio by Green River Studio
Cherry Chopstick Silver and Gold Earrings by Green River Studio
Upcycled/recycled
For Maria Whetman from Fluxplay Jewellery, inspiration lies within the materials themselves. She uses tin and found objects to create her unique pieces. She was initially inspired by tin suitcases and toys from African artisans displayed in a fair-trade shop and “found the idea of working with 'found' metals that had existing, prescribed colours and designs on them, very appealing....a new challenge and a completely different way of working. I had always designed my jewellery then applied materials to the designs, now I realised I could let the materials tell me what they wanted to be."
Locked Hearts lockets by Fluxplay Jewellery
Halfbiscuit Earrings Bluered by Fluxplay Jewellery
Textiles
A Alicia’s collection of eco-ethical jewellery is “inspired by chemistry sets, nature programmes, over-zealous house plants and the cosmos, amongst other things...”. With a textile fascination that goes back “as long as I can remember”, Anna Alicia’s combination of textiles and jewellery came about “partly through the desire to make bold statement pieces that are still light and comfortable to wear!”. She relishes the challenge inherent in her approach, finding that working limited materials inspires her to make the most of their possibilities.
Crow Necklace in organic fairtrade cotton by A Alicia
Six Cord Dip Dye Necklace in organic fairtrade cotton by A Alicia
With a background in textiles, Nikki Ainscow of Maneggi wanted to offer an alternative to conventional jewellery. “Creating my necklaces purely from ribbon and fabric allows possibilities for manipulation and embellishment to create a new aesthetic. The concept behind my jewellery is to distort the conventional appearance of a necklace and create an entirely new shape to reside against the body, embellishing the simplest of outfits. “
Abbellisca - Black and Cream Chunky Beaded Spiral Necklace by Maneggi
Abbellisca - Black and Gold Ribbon Necklace by by Maneggi
Methods and techniques
Check out these tutorials for an intro into different aspects of jewellery craft:
Polymer Clay Flower and Pearl Bracelet
Fabric chain necklace and jewellery tutorial round-up
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